The year is about to end and I haven't taken any days off. Not surprising considering there's a pandemic out there. So instead of several trips aboard planned for the summer of 2020, I've spent two weeks on the Israel National Trail, from the town of Arad, on the edge of the Judean desert, to the town of Mitzpe Ramon in the Negev desert.
And this is where I feel I need to give some background: The deserts amount to about half the size of Israel. If what you imagine when I say "desert" is the Sahara, then stop. Ours are rocky ones, with mountains and valleys. There's very little to no water, very little shade, and the distances between human settlements are large. What makes up for these difficulties are breathtaking vistas, remoteness and of course - the challenge.
Knowing that I cannot carry the weight of a tent on my back, I joined a service that takes care of all your logistical needs - it moves luggage and tents from one night stop to the other, brings fresh produce to make dinner, and provides electricity stations(!), port-o-poty (!!) and hot showers (!!!). It's the nearest thing to glamping in the desert - just wake up and walk. They do this twice a year - in fall they start in the north and make their way south, and in spring - start in Eilat and head north. Check them out at http://walkaboutlove.org.il/
Words cannot describe the beauty of the desert. It's truly a place of magic. From afar its vast and empty, but look closely and it's full of details. It truly is awe-some, in the most basic sense of the word. The desert is the place where I understand people and culture worshipping nature.
Day 1: Arad to Birkat Tzfira
Day 2: Birkat Tzfira to Mesada (highlights: seasonal waterfalls, strolling through Mesada)
Day 3: Mesada to Ein Bokek (highlights: view of the dead sea from above)
Day 4: Ein Bokek to Amiaz (alternative route due to flood warnings)
Day 5: Amiaz to Ein Tamar
Day 6: Ein Tamar to Maa'le Arkabim (highlights: colourful sand in the small crater, crossing the small crater, Ma'ale Eli Via Ferrata)
Day 7: Maa'le Akrabim to Oron (highlights: Roman ruins, The View from Maa'le Yamin, Maa'le Palmach Via Ferrata, Ein Yerukam pools, The "Snapir" hogbacks)
Day 8: Oron to Nahal Mador (highlights: this day is just one big highlight: Karbolet hogback, Nahal Ofran) - long and challenging day, but worth every minute.
Day 9: Nahal Mador to the Hamishtahim Halevanim (highlights: view from Hod Akev)
Day 10: Hamishtahim Halevanim to Ein Hava (highlights: Ein Akev pools, Ein Shaviv oasis)
Day 11: Ein Hava to Mitzpe Ramon (highlights: Nahal Hava)
Some basic info:
In the desert most of the days can be classified as medium to challenging. The combination of no water, lack of share, descent and ascent and the rocky terrain make this a more challenging area to hike in .It's worth every minute.
Camping in national parks are allowed only in designated areas. They are typically nothing more than an even surface to place the tent - free of charge, no need to book, just pick your spot and open the tent. No water or other services provided in most of them.
The desert has no water. Seriously. You might encounter a seasonal water hole, but these cannot be relied upon. Take what you need to drink, and then some. That means 4-6 litters per person per day.
Flash floods are a real thing. Floods are created as a result of rain elsewhere, so pay attention to weather forecast, particularly if you your planned route includes gorges or creeks.
The desert has serious temperature fluctuation between night and day. The days can be hot, even in winter, and at sun-down the temperatures fall. Make sure you have some warmer clothes with you.
There's very little shade available most of the time. Wear a hat. If there's shade - then there's time to take a rest.
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