Les Saisies to Refuge de la Croix de Pierre (9.4km, +91, -412)
Having spent the night in Albertville, I wake up ready to catch the bus and pick-up the trail at Queige. But the weather forecast looks bad. It's not the rain I fear, it's the thunderstorms. The forecast says these will start at noon. Do I change my plans or stick to them hopping for the best? On the one hand, the weather in the Alps changes often, and it's completely possible that the storm will not come, or happen much later. But today's trail is an ascent above the tree line, in open, exposed area surrounded by cable cars. I am supposed to sleep at Refuge Du Lachat tonight, but I decide to shorten the day by taking the bus to Les Saisies, effectively cutting a day out of my itinerary. I think I was so exhausted by yesterday's descent into the valley, which I found very long, that the decision cut out the ascent on the other side of the valley was not very difficult. I know that If the thunderstorms wouldn't come, i'll feel stupid for changing my plans, but hey, that's life.
The rain is already trickling as I get off the bus at Les Saisies. It's actually two buses, one from Albertville to Beaufort, and then from Beaufort to Les Saisies, but when we arrive at Beaufort I find that it's me who's staying, and the it's the bus that's changing it's number and route. Les Saisies is a bustling ski town, with shops and cafes and cable cars and people and families and more than anything - bikes. In summer the place turns into a mountain biking mecca, with many trails dedicated to this unspeakable pastime. I mean - riding a bike down a mountain? why would you want to do that when you have legs?? (I only learnt to ride a bike two years ago, can you tell?)
The initial hour out of Les Saisies is mostly under cable cars. Look out for the bikers, as occasionally the trails overlap. Once I put some distance in, I am mostly by myself.
While the promised storm did not come, it's raining heavily and the temperatures drop. I arrive at Refuge de la Croix de Pierre at around lunch, and simply stay. Why go out when inside its so nice and cosy and they have a bed for me?
Of course once I decide to stay, it's suddenly warmer out and the rain stops, so I go out to explore my surrounding. It's a combination of Alpine meadows with active farms and abandoned ski slops. It seems as if they entire mountain range is one large ski site.
As I head back into the hut, a truck arrives to collect today's milk from the farm on the other side of the road. Today's business finished, the farmer heads into the hut. When I step inside, I discover the hut has turned into the local bar, with a bunch of men standing around with their beers, chatting to the owners - a couple and their adorable daughter.
The hut small, with one sleeping quarter with small sleeping nooks to its sides. It's just me an a French couple, and I get my own nook. At dinner they invite me to sit with them, and over a great meal - Crozets de Savoie, a tiny square pasta, baked with sausage and LOTS of cheese for me, potatoes and cheese for the vegetarian couple. Mac and Cheese, the French way. I go to bed 90% cheese.
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