Refuge de la Roselette to Refuge de la Croix du Bonhomme (10.6km, +727, -165).
Having spent a lovely afternoon drinking Aperol Spritz on the lawn of the Gai Soleil hotel in Les Contamines the day before, I feel ready to take on the day. Heading south, I follow the TMB/GR5 trail blaze through town, keeping an eye out for signs to the Télécabine de la Gorge (you can also take the summer shuttle). I buy a combined ticket for La Gorge and La Signal gondolas. Taking me to the top of the mountain, I find myself in the middle of a large ski area. I want to get out of here and on the trail as quickly as possible, but it takes me a few long minutes to realign, and to find my path among all the roads and signs in this busy area. I follow the signs to Refuge La Roselette to pick up the trail just below the refuge. Very quickly the trail goes quiet, the narrow path meanders through somewhat rocky grounds, with an abundance of blueberry bushes around. As always, I keep my eyes open for raspberries, but no luck today.
I'm by myself, but after about 20 minutes I'm overtaken by a group of hikers, the youngest of which is surely 20 years older than me. This doesn't stop them from walking in an almost running speed while also chatting happily in the German dialect that gives them away as Swiss.
After about 30 minutes I arrive at Refuge des Pres, so new that it doesn't appears on some of the maps. Ordering coffee, I take a peak inside and see a modern, inviting hut. It's completely empty, but most of the tables outside have a reserved sign on them. Not surprising, considering their large lawn is facing the Mon Blanc range. Not a bad place to spend the night.
Refreshed by the coffee and back on the trail, I hear the TMB trail before I see it. But before I join this busy trail, I'm faced by a choice: descent on an annoying bike trail, only to ascent on the other side, or go straight, ignoring the signs in French warning of a potential rock avalanche. With the direct trail looking neglected, even abandoned, I take the long way around and regret it almost immediately, with the bike trail being very unfriendly to people on two feet.
But this too shall pass, and within 20 minutes I find myself on a trail full of hikers. I go from seeing no-one to a constant stream of people speaking a variety of languages, and I'm reminded of why I like trails off the beaten track. I've done this part before, but it's not any less beautiful. This time though I'm much more experienced, and in a better shape, and I make the long climb to Refuge de la Croix du Bonhomme in less 3 hours. Last time I was here it was cold and foggy, but today the sky's clear and I can see the view from Col du Bonhomme on all sides.
Refuge de la Croix du Bonhomme, or Bonhomme as it is commonly referred to, is probably one of the busiest huts in Europe, with almost 100 beds, is it at almost full capacity most of the season. It is perched at the side of the mountain with amazing views below, but unfortunately, its huge balcony busy in spite of the cold wind. With the long draught the showers are closed, as are the flush toilets in the building. At dinner, I'm happy to find myself with a mix of people: two French speaking Swiss men from Bern, an India-born young English man, and two women, one originally from Serbia, the other from Sri-Lanka, living in the Farro Islands. Everyone but me are hiking the TMB, and the conversation soon turns to trails and huts and food. From tomorrow, all my dinners will be in French.
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