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The Schluchtensteig, Day 4: From Fischbach to St. Blasien

Over the hill, under some ski lifts, and down into the northern shores of Schluchsee. As we reach the lake itself, it's buzzing with people, with a large caravan park, and people everywhere - hiking, finishing, kayaking, out collecting mushrooms. South from here we can see the town of Schluchsee, with lots and lots of hotels. Around the lake the trail is wide and shared with bikers and the occasional car going into a Vesperstube Unterkrummenhof, a mouthful of a name for a large restaurant-cafe overlooking the lake. But it's too early even for coffee and cake, and we continue on.

View of Schluchsee from the other side

Today we are away from the dramatic gorge scenery we've grown accustomed to, and in the most picturesque German scenery imaginable, with green rolling hills and farm houses dotting the view. The weather constantly changes, moments of clear blue skies interrupted by bouts of rain and heavy clouds.

Blasiwald Althütte is a small village with some ancient-looking farmhouses along side more modern holiday homes. Many of the houses have flourishing vegetable gardens, and we stop often to admire them. There's lots of cabbage, peas, silver beat, as well as onions and garlic.

As we leave the village a trough at the side of the road catches our eyes. Someone placed soft drinks in a wooden trough, cooling it with water taken from the near by stream. There's even snacks!

There's some serious work put into this!

Away from the village and we are back in the forest. Passed Windberghütte, we enter the first and only gorge of the day - Windbergschlucht. It's back to the now-familiar dark forest, waterfalls and muddy, slippery trails. It's too short though, and before long we arrive at the back streets of St. Blasien.

I expected St Blasien to be yet another sleepy small town, but it is teaming with people and has a cathedral that feels far too big for it's size. Turns out it's been a catholic centre for generations, with a monastery and a school. There's a large square, the Alb river cutting through it, lovely old buildings, as well as stores and cafes. There's even two chain supermarkets if you need to stock up on provisions.

After a stroll in the gardens and a short visit in the cathedral, of course we go into the bakery to have yet another lovely cake. As it's the hight of summer vacations, the town is full and our hotel is a little bit off the centre and up the hill. In the local tourist info, next to the cathedral, I pay 1 euro and get a tiny Scheluchtenstieg pin to put on my backpack.

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