How varied can a 1000 km-long trail along the coast of England be? well, very.
Last year we walked from Westward Ho! to Padstow (read all about it here). this year we changed direction and walked from Portreath to Padstow.
What's similar:
Both sections have an absolutely stunning coastline. Most of the time you walk on the cliffs above the Atlantic sea, with the tide and the birds a constant companion. I suspect this is the same for much of the trail.
What's different?
Last year we started in Devon, where much of the walk was in forests above the sea, with endless blooms of Bluebells. As we crossed into Cornwall, we mostly walked so on our right were dramatic cliffs, and on our left - English farmland with grazing sheep and cows. The terrain included a lot of short and steep ascents and descents, which totaled into quite a climb. In between there were tiny bays with ancient harbors and charming little villages. As we progressed into Padstow, the rocky bays were replaced with stretches of sandy beaches.
This year, starting in Portreath, the farm land was largely replaced with historic tin mining sites, the scenery doted with chimneys. These was some very long dandy beaches with some brave and hopeful surfers and lovely sand dunes. The towns and villages along the route were full of holiday homes and families in bathing suits, and were rather lacking in character. Highlights of this year's hike:
- The village of St. Agnes (and the St. Agnes Bakery!).
- Seeing seals in the water south of Hollywell. There's a colony there, but they were not home when we walked by the rocks where they usually lay.
- Seeing the tide come up in Padstow. In low tide the wide mouth of the river is almost dry, and then suddenly, it's high tide and you need a ferry to get across.
- The small pink flowers of the Sea Pink (also known as Thrift) that absolutely cover the rocks and stone walls all throughout the trail.
Which would I recommand?
Although the Westward Ho! to Padstow section is much more strenuous, I would definitely say I preferred last year's stretch. The combination of forests, cliffs and tiny old villages was a winner for me.
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