Port Quin Cross to Padstow, 14.1km, +195, -278
The 08:30 bus from Port Isaac requires us to miss the cooked breakfast at the hotel, the first time where they have other things on the menu other than a Full English. Fresh croissants!
Port Quin cross is tiny junction next to a few farm buildings on a stretch of road full of tiny junctions and small farms buildings. The driver lets us off in the middle of the road, and we spend a few minutes trying to avoid the surprising number of incoming cars. We need to take a left into a small side road, and take the public pathway that will lead us to the coast and to our trail. Good thing I'm using a navigation app, because the public pathway is completely obscured by overgrowth. We pass into a large paddock with lots of sheep, by a few neglected-looking farm buildings, and down into a beautiful little secluded cove with an actual sandy beach. This is where we pick up the SWCP.
There's a few people walking their dogs. All are off lead, in spite of a signs hanging of the the stiles warning of a parasite, dogs being its most common host, that is killing the cattle around here. Farmers are asking people to keep their dogs on a lead and collect their poo, but nothing will stand between the English and their dogs, not even the English countryside.
Today’s scenery is a drastic change compared to previous days. So far we’ve had dramatic cliffs, narrow pebbled beached, smuggler's bay, jugged rocks and the occasional harbor tucked away. Today is about beaches.
The trail continue into Pentair point, a headland jutting into the sea, marking the northern end of the river Camel estuary. It is now getting busy with lots of day hikers and runners around. Now the cliffs that have been our constant companions in the past 5 days are gone, replaced by beaches. Descending from Pentair Point, the trail goes all around the bay where the town of Polzeath lays. But it's low tide, and rather than walk the paved streets, we cross the bay on foot. There's boats, families walking the beach, an ice-cream truck and even a few brave swimmers. On the other side of the bay there's a large caravan park and a cafe selling local ice-cream. A very expensive, and very tasty, ice cream (11 pounds for 4 scope!). This has a strong holiday resort vibe.
The section between Polzeath and Rock is more of a promenade than a trail. From here its a continually populated area, with large vacation homes on our left and the sea just there on our right. Rock beach is even bigger than Polzeath, and again we leave the trail and walk on the sand. It looks as if it's possible to cross into Padstow by foot, but as we get closer it's clear that it's not possible, with the river Camel leaving a not-so-narrow strip of water between us and the town. The sand is now wet, and we trudge on looking for the ferry landing. With the tide low, the ferry leaves from just below the concrete jetty. It's a small narrow boat with two parallel benches. Fast and efficient, it goes back and forth between the Padstow harbor and Rock. It is full, and it's only May.
Padstow has a secluded harbor, and would have been picture perfect if it wasn't for the dozens and dozens of tourists, all British, milling about, eating ice-cream and fish &chips. Our hotel is at the old customs house right next to the harbor, an our room is at the very top through a maze of stairs and corridors. The room is large and I feel like a giant, able to reach the black supporting beams by simply holding my hands up, without even stretching too much. Not a room for people taller than 1.7, for sure (I'm not 1.7m. Officially i'm 1.57m, and I'm sticking with it).
Rick Stein's St. Petroc's Bistro is just a few meters away, and is a very apt place to celebrate this week. We go for a selection of starters: fish soup, served with croutons and aioli, crab meat pasta and shrimp in lemon butter. All simple, wonderful dishes. It was so good. I'm disappointed not to find sticky toffee pudding on the menu, but the Panna Cotta makes up for it.
The taxi picks us up in front of our hotel at 07:30. It's a Saturday, and Padstow is still asleep. I take the opportunity to take a picture of a sleepy little harbor town, so different from the one that welcomed us less than 24 hours ago.
THE IMPORTANT STUDD:
Accommodation: The Old Customs House hotel, just at the edge of the harbor. It has a great pub next door.
Highlight of the day: Crossing the bays in low tide.
Supply: Padstow has a supermarket.
Food along the way: Polzeath and Rock.
Trail map: https://www.outdooractive.com/en/route/hiking-route/united-kingdom/port-isaac-to-padstow/23412697/
Public Transport: Bus 96 took us from Port Isaac to Port Quinn Cross. Bus 10 connects Padstow to the nearest train station (Bodmin Parkway, which is in the middle of nowhere). Bus 56 connects Padstow to Newquay.
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