Crackington Haven to Boscastle, 11.1k, +562, -624
It's miserable out. It's not only pouring rain, but it's very windy, cloudy and depressing. Although they say the English hike in every weather, the other two hikers in the dining room of our B&B are not in any rush to go out. One is the guy we've met on our third day, a charity worker from Portsmouth hiking the whole trail. The other is the first women we've met on the trail, also hiking the whole thing. She has a huge bag.
After a polite "good morning" we find ourselves in a conversation on hiking, weather and the best forecast apps. I'm happy to learn that the met app is predicting the rain to stop by 11, and that it's a trustworthy one. A call to yesterday's driver and I arrange a pick up at 10:30 to take us from Bude to Crackington Haven. We are not the only ones to do this, says the driver. Hence the 10:30 pickup time.
Crackington Haven is a tiny village in a small bay. The driver stops at the parking lot, with two (closed) cafes, one on each side. We pick up the trail from here and it's straight up. It's still a bit miserable, cold and windy, but we quickly get warm with a hike out of the bay and out into the open. There is a slight change in scenery compared to previous days, even more of a mix of dramatic on one side and pastoral on the other. We are in slate country, with the cliffs layered and crumbling, and the border walls of the different paddocks are intricately layered in a complex pattern. I'm obsessed, thinking of all the people before us, working this land, quarrying the slates, building and inspecting and repairing, maintaining this tradition generation after generation.
An hour into the hike and the sky's clear, as if nothing has happened. The sun comes out, the water below us is glistening, pink flowers dotting the slops.
By now we are used to the ups and down and the stairs, and we only curse them once every ascent. It's cliffs and headlands as far as the eye could see. There are a few killer ascents, the most memorable just past the Pentargon waterfall. Take a deep breath, one step at a time.
At least there's cake at the top. Take a left off the path and into the lane and you'll find yourself in the Boscastle Farm Shop & Cafe. There are just about to close, but we manage to snag coffee and cakes (really good) as well as buy some locally made cheese from their store.
A short stroll from the farm is Boscastle. First you see the bay, and then the harbor's protection wall and the fishing boats mooring after a day's work. Boscastle is a sizable village, some of it at the bottom next to the harbor and the rest spread over the hills above. There's a witchcraft museum (!) and a sign telling the story of how the lower part of the village, where we are now, was devastated by a flash flood as recently as 2004, only to be rebuilt within the year. There are several cafes and restaurants, all closed by now. Another great day has ended.
THE IMPORTANT STUFF:
Accommodation: the Riverside Hotel next to the harbor at Boscastle.
Highlights of the day: the slate walls. I just love them.
Supply: There's a Spar in lower Boscastle, next to the post office.
Food along the trail: Cafes in Crackington Haven (were closed) and the Boscastle Farm Shop just a few minutes before the village itself.
Route map: https://www.outdooractive.com/en/route/hiking-route/united-kingdom/crackington-haven-to-boscastle/23412647/
Public Transport: the 95 bus connects Bude to Boscastle through Crackington Haven and onwards.
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