Clovelly to Hartford, 17.4km, +509, -476
Coming back up the hill, it looks so much shorter than it did last night, when we didn’t know what to expect.
At the top of the village we meet the guy who pulls the sledges. It's only after we part that I realise I have so many more questions: Does he have regular delivery hours? Is there a day for groceries? Who pays him - the village or the inhabitants? And why aren't the donkeys doing this?
Out of the village the trail enters a forest on the edge of the local manor. On the right is the sea, on the left - well manicured nature. A strangely lavish yet badly maintained gazebo is a great place to stop to look at the calm sea. Far ahead of us an island is visible.
Out of the woods, the trail continues just above the coast line, with thick bushes flattened by the heavy winds separating us from the sheer drop down into the rocky bays below. On the right are large meadows dotted with cows and sheep, large farm houses clearly visible further away. The big barns hint at large-scale and prosperous agricultural operations.
Every so often there is a descent into yet another smugglers beach. There is also a memorial for the personnel of an aircraft that crashed here.
With clear sky, relentless winds and endless midges we advance toward the large white golf ball that is a military outpost. A quick bypass and we are at Hartland Point, a rocky outcrop surrounded by water on both sides. The lighthouse, strangely located at the bottom of the cliffs, is inaccessible due to rock fall. It’s a shame, as I love lighthouses and was looking forward to the visit.
There's a car park and a few people about. The picnic area is deserted, the clear day not compensating for the howling winds. There is however a snack stand - still closed - with a shed allowing us to stop for lunch. Sitting on the ground, we share the space with two hikers, one completing the full trail and the other one a friend, joining him for a few days. As usual, we exchange hiking stories and plans, and wish each other a great hike.
From here we are right above the cliffs, no bushes to separate us from the magnificent views. This must be a geologist's paradise, with large slabs of rocks and exposed layers of natural history.
The next stop on the trail is the hotel at Hartland Quay, uniquely situated on a cliff just above the ocean, with nothing else around it. But we are not heading there, but into the village of Harland, 4 km away. Just before the Abbey river, at the aptly named Ladies Walk, we take a left, planning to cross the fields into the village. But our plan is almost immediately thwarted by a Private Property sign. A few locals enjoying the sun explain that this is the grounds of the Hartland Abbey. No problem entering, they say, as long as you pay at the booth at the other side. So we enter a long avenue of trees providing shade. There’s sheep and cows, bee hives and even a peacock.
Unsure of where we can continue into the village through the manor estate, we opt to walk out the front exit. I see the road ahead connecting the manor to the village and I know there is no way I'm walking that. It’s a typical English country road - narrow, with no shoulders and with high hedges on both sides. In other words: a death trap. By mere chance, just as we stand on the side of the road consulting our map, the couple from before arrive with their car and offer us a ride into the village, dropping us off at our hotel.
Hartford is not particularly impressive. Once small main street with a post office slash grocery store, a cafe that is (what else) closed, and lots of cars with presumably people coming back from work.
Dinner is great again: peppers and squash soup for my mom, mussels in coconut cream, ginger and garlic for me, with some great dense bread to dip. I get the most generous portion of mussels I've ever seen, more than 40 of them, and by the end I'm so full there's no space for dessert.
The room is lovley.
THE IMPORTANT STUFF:
Accommodation: The Hartland Inn, in the main street of Hartland. Pub accommodation.
Highlights of the day: Hartland point, windswept and beautiful.
Supply: Small store at Hartland, a few steps away from the hotel.
Food along the way: the snack stand at Hartland Point was closed when we arrived. The Hartland Abbey has tea rooms with a large outdoor sitting area and a selection of cakes.
Route map: https://out.ac/GZc9v
Transport: the same 319 bus services Hartland as well, but it does not go through Hartland Quay. There is no public transport connection between Hartland Quay and Hartland. If your accommodation is off-route, you'll need to arrange for a taxi ahead of time, or ask the hotel as the Quay to assist.
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