Start: Glungezer Hütte (2610m)
Finish: Lizumer Hütte (2019m)
Last night, after dinner, an employee of the hut makes the rounds, asking each table where they are going and providing the weather forecast with a stern warning. A typical alpine afternoon storm is predicted for tomorrow, he says. Much of the trail towards Lizumer hut is exposed and dangerous in wet conditions. Be at Naviser Jöchl by 14:00 at the latest, he says. And remember, the whole trail takes about 8 hours, so do the math.
My math says that if the trail takes 8 hours "by the book", it should take me 10. With his warning ringing in my ears I set out at 06:30, after a sleepless night. I'm sure I've slept some, but I remember being awake at every hour.
The trail is exactly as advertised - exposed ridge full of boulders. There's very little actual trail. I've crossed boulder fields before, but this is not just a small part of the section, this is the section. Up into a peak with a cross and down and then up to the next one. They all have crosses, but only one of them is called Kruezspitze?
The day starts wet with last nights rain, but very quickly the sun comes out blazing. It's hot and exposed and there's no water anywhere, like an alpine desert. Good thing I took 4 liters with me, because I'll be finishing it all by the end of the day.
The view is magnificent in a bleak way. Behind me are the Karwendel alps, with their bare peaks, and ahead of me is boulder fields. Far away to the west there's some snow covered peaks. I love this baren moon-like view, one that is so different from what most people think when they hear the word Alps.
My breathing is a bit labored, more than usual, but I attribute it to the trail and this being the second day which is always more challenging than the first and to the stress of making it on time before the storm comes. If it comes.
It doesn't. And that's ok, that's the nature of weather is the Alps. But I still make it to Naviser Jöchl by 13:30. The view now is different, more the classic alpine meadow, only with big signs warning that this is army training grounds. I sit down on the grass and realize I have not eaten today. I try to, but I'm just not hungry. I actually feel nauseated, but again - stress and not really sleeping and I never eat a lot of the trail. I'll eat something when I get to the hut.
It's 3 more hours after that. The last hour is mostly on a dirt road, and I'm ready to get there.
Lizumer is a modern hut, sitting next to a small lake and surrounded by lush alpine greenery. Upon arrival, I'm asked to sit outside, and immediately approached fir a drink order. A young women goes from table to table and checkes everyone in. She gives me a card to scan anytime I order anything. That's novel! I share a room with three men. We all have the same backpack in the same color. Not surprising, considering I'm in Austria and 90% of the people carry a Dueter. If you see a group of hikers and they all have Dueter backpacks - they are German. Or Austrians. Trust me on this, this rule never failed me.
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