Start: Rifugio Barmasse/Finish: Rifugio Cuney , 15.8, +1360, -881
With yet another long day ahead, I set out early, when the fog from the night is still withdrawing. The trail starts with short easy walk before reaching the forest and starting the climb. Reaching Alp Fornace, a moment of distraction and I take a wrong turn. This being an active farm with cow trails going in every direction, it takes me a few precious moment to understand that i'm not on the trail, and a few more false starts until I find the correct one and push forward.
As I climb towards the col, I go back to what's been on my mind in the past few days: being a women on my own on the trail. It's very visible that among the very few people hiking this trail, I'm the only female. People I meet seem to be impressed: I think I see it in their eyes and in the faces. They sometime share this information with others in Italian in a surprised or amazed tone.
I don't know which part they are responding to: being on my own? being a women? this specific trail? Regardless, the nice warm feeling I get from their response doesn't last long at all. I start doubting my understanding of their response. Are they really impressed, or are they actually surprised? surprised that a women who looks like me is out hiking, is daring to invade this space she doesn't belong to. As the Italian duo walks past me, I imagine they pity me, wondering why I'm here. After all, i'm slow, sweaty, struggling. What right do I have to be here?
I get my slow, struggling, sweaty ass into the first col of the day - Finestra d’Ersa (2290m). A bit further up the mountain and then down into what has become my favourite scenery: the meadows just below the exposed rocks, a mix of streams and low grass, with marmot burrows everywhere and their whistles piercing the otherwise silent air.
The trail goes past Lac de Tsan, requiring a slight detour if you want to get to the lake itself. High above on the other side I see Bivouac de Tsan, it's metal cover glistening in the sun.
Just below Fenetre de Tsan, I see an unexpected sight: a group of people all facing someone wearing white robes in some sort of religious ceremony. Perhaps a memorial? I reach the col itself just as the ceremony ends, and the small group of participants are taking picnic supplies out of their backpacks, calling the children to eat. The priest disappears behind a rock, only to come out as a middle aged nondescript man. I'm too embarrassed to approach them and ask, so I just sit down, take my food out, and have a quick lunch.
At Fenetre de Tsan
Post-lunch is another descent. As I climb up towards bivacco Reboulaz, I see a herd of Ibex. They are grazing in the vicinity of the hut, and are completely undisturbed by my presence. I take this opportunity to satisfy my curiosity on what a bivacco look like on the inside. Bivacco Reboulaz has double doors locked with a deadbolt, followed by another door leading to a small, well-equipped kitchen with gas stove, pots and pans, as well as beds with blankets. I'm impressed.
From here it's a gorgeous walk along Lago di Luseney, jumping between rocks and over small streams. There is a white flower I'm obsessed with, found only on the outskirts of the small lakes and streams. This is such a serene, beautiful place, and I feel completely at peace.
From here it's another climb to the day's third pass - Col Terray (2775m). From below, it looks like an impassable field of boulders and gravel. A steep descent, and now the trail runs along the mountain side. There's no snow, but many tiny streams cross the narrow path, making it slippery in places. The trail goes on and on and on, far longer than I thought, looking at the map. The valley can be seen below, and not far under me I notice a building with what appears to be a grass roof. I hope against all odds (and the reality of what the map shows me), that this is the hut, but it's just a farm. I finally reach a larger stream, and Santuario di Cuney , is looming above. Two more minutes and the Rifugio is visible as well, dwarfed by the incomprehensibly large church.
The bunks. I claimed the one closest to the door, though I could have just sprawled over the entire lower bunk
Rifugio Cuney is very simple, with a small dinning room with two long tables lead into two crowded rooms. Sleeping arrangements are tight, with a single, three-level bunk bed, 5 mattresses on each level. Not sure what you are supposed to do if you sleep in the middle and wake up with a need to pee in the middle of the night. Luckily for me, the only other person in the hut tonight is the solitary Italian guy, and we each get an entire room to ourselves. The hut operator has no explanation as to how come the hut was full the night before and is fully booked for the next night, but is almost completely empty tonight. I feel relieved, as I can’t imagine what it would have been like, trying to sleep in this over-stuffed room with 14 other people.
Before dinner I go out to explore the church. Hiking in the alps, there's signs of catholic devotion everywhere. Lone crosses can be seen on mountain tops, with small shrines dotting the roads. Churches can be found in the most unlikely places. The Santuario di Cuney is not only large, but highly decorated. I think of the poor farmers, coming from the valleys below, who carried materials on their backs to build this place. I'm both impressed by the physical endeavour and appalled by the complete waste of human energy, resources and life in the service of an imaginary friend (can you tell i'm an atheist?)
Dinner is yet another example of how well the Italians do simple food: pasta with mushrooms followed by ham and roasted potatoes with fresh rosemary, and a chocolate pudding for dessert. And of course, wine.
I take advantage of being on my own in a room for 15, and build a fortress out of 4 blankets I burrow into, keeping me warm in the cold room. Today has been a good day. Tough, but good. Just before I fall asleep I realise I haven't seen the Italian duo I privately named Laurel and Hardy. Have they gone further? But where to? The only other hut in the area is half way down the valley.
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