Start: Rifugio Vieux Crest/Finish: Rifugio Grand Tournalin, 11.1, +1176, -552
It's a strange reality, realising you start treating any day that is not more than 1000 meters descent and 1000 meters ascent is an easy day.
Today is one of those days: retracing my steps back towards Rifugio Ferraro, descending into the valley of Ayas, and then up the other side into Rifugio Gran Tournalin.
My seven roommates are fast asleep, and I do this backpackers dance of trying to pack my things without making too much noise. I'm also the first one at breakfast - if last night was anything to go by, most guests here are local tourists, rather than backpackers, they are in no rush to stat their day. I shouldn't be either, not today, but I'm an early riser, and I've given up the fight.
The first two hours are familiar, but this time they are not as busy as yesterday. I even see a deer at the edge of the forest. Getting to Rifugio Ferraro and Rifugio Frachey, it's too early to stop for coffee, though they do look inviting. The descent into the valley ends vey quickly and I find myself at the main road into the tinny hamlet of Saint Jacques (Full name: Saint Jacques des Allemands, Saint Jack of the Germans). The place is absolutely teaming with people, with tour buses unloading more and more into the tiny village square. I was not expecting that. The tiny old church has
I take a few minutes to check out the ancient church with it's wall painting and the grotto next to it, then cross the bridge to start the hike up, not without stoping for a minute to admire the river flowing through the village. The amount, strength and clarity of the waters in these areas never cease to amaze and delight me.
Many people head up and out of the village, but within 2-3 minutes they take a turn in another direction and I'm mostly on my own. Another delight awaits me: raspberry bushes line both sides of the trail. It's my favourite berry, and I don't miss a chance to eat it fresh.
It's a constant climb, but not a steep one, with deserted farm houses along the way. There is a funny little tradition here of putting up signs on these often deserted buildings with the name and the altitude.
I suddenly realise I am making ok time, and more so - it's not as tough as it's been so far. I still struggle, but it's more of an acceptable level of struggle.
Leaving the forest, I walk by a new home being built - something I haven't seen before around these part. Walking along a stream, I reach a small valley, surrounded by jugged mountain tops. The silence is incredible, it feels as if it's just me, the cows, and tiny nature - crickets, butterflies.
I reach the hut a bit after noon. They are busy with the lunch crowed, and there really is a crowd. The hut is popular with day and overnight hikers as well as bikers. I decide to forgo my picnic supply and eat lunch outside - pasta, white wine and preserved chestnuts with cream for dessert.
Rifugio Grand Tournalin is spacious, with unlimited hot showers and nicely furnished rooms. It's packed even for dinner, and i'm sat with an Italian couple from Torino who are there on an overnight hike and the guy I saw at Rifugio Alpenzu. Turns out he is hiking the AV1 as well. We spend dinner (tastes and plentiful as usual) chatting in a mix of English and Italian. I'm grateful for the company, and for their willingness to spear English with me: it's not easy for most people around here, and i'm grateful for any one who tries, and embarrassed by my complete lack of knowledge in Italian.
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