Start: Rifugio Alpenzu Grande/Finish: Rifugio Vieux Crest , 17.4KM, +567, -1260
I wake up exhausted. Not physically, somehow physically I'm ok - no back pains, no aching muscles or painful knees. But being on my own on the trail, together with the physical difficulty, it feels uncomfortable, almost dangerous. Last night I tortured myself with questioning my decision to go on this trip, and talking to my family didn't help, with a not-so-gentle reminder from them that I can just stop, find somewhere and do day hikes or even go back home. I know they mean well, and that they worry about the dangers in hiking in the Alps. And I also know they think they are helping, giving me an out. But I feel even more alone. I'm not looking for a "you can do it" cheer-leading response, but I am looking for something, something more supportive and understanding. Perhaps something more honest, about why I'm here and why stopping is not really an option.
I decide to continue on, but re-evaluate on a day-by-day basis. I feel as if a burden has been lifted. But i'm still torn between the fear of the alon-ness of the trail, and a hesitancy about making drastic changes, I decide to keep my original booking at Rifugio Vieux Crest, but take a different path to get there, involving two cable cars and very little walking (relatively speaking). I will later discover that the climb up to Col Pinter, my original path, is a very popular day hike, and that I would probably wouldn't have been on my own, but the coin has been tossed and the decision has been made.
The trail into the valley is an easy one, although not well marked and easily confused with ones created by the ubiquitous cows. I reach Gressoney La Trinite in no time. I'm delighted to find the German couple from last night sipping coffee in the main square. Joining them, we continue our delightful conversation from last night and they regal me with stories of travels in the middle east, in countries i'll never get to go to.
Eventually they depart, and I continue up the valley, along the river, into Stafal, directly below Monte Rosa, where the road ends and where the cable car stations are at. Waiting in line for the ticket, I check out my fellow travellers - mountain climbers and bikers going up for a day of adventures. I really do have a thing for mountain climbers, so this is a good place as any to ogle them (discreetly!)
The first leg of the ascent is in a closed gondola, but the second one is a simple chair lift. By now I know how this works, but it always takes me a few moments to relax into the ride in these flimsy contraptions. The view quickly turns bleak and rocky, with snow covered tops in the not-so-far distance. I love this view, I really do, moon-like scenes of rocks and exposed earth with nothing much growing. And water, lots of water.
Before long I arrive at the top station. With heavy winds blowing, I take a few minutes to locate the path down. I am the only hiker, and soon the mountain bikers disappear down back into the valley. The descent is not particularly interesting, but today is not about the views. It's about resting and trying to really listen and let myself understand what I want.
I cross a stream with a few hikers lounging by - this is part of the Tour de Monte Rosa trail. One of the hikers has his boots off, and is inspecting his feet - a reminder how these pesky things can cause so much trouble on the trail. I take comfort in having had no blisters so far.
My trail reconnects with the AV1 (and the SI) at a junction at about 2040m. The options are right, towards Rifugio Ferraro and Rifugio Frachey, 10 minutes away from here, or left, about 2 hours walk towards my destination for the night, Rifugio Vieux Crest.
But I don't want the day to end yet, so in spite of the fact that I will have to retrace my steps tomorrow, I choose to go to Crest. The trail descent in a nice, easy path, only to turn into a dirt road for several kilometres, largely running at the same altitude with a few steepish descents. I find that they are actually not that difficult. Due to the gondola and the dirt road there are many families around. The bar next to the gondola station has some pet rabbits.
The village of Crest is tiny, barely a hamlet, with a cable car connecting it down into the valley and no car access. Rifugio Vieux Crest is a combination of hotel and a hut, spread over several buildings in the village. I'm given a small room with a group of 7 20-something Italians who tell me they are starting the AV1 tomorrow. I get excited to get travel mates, only to realise i'm not likely to meet them again, as they are planning on hiking tomorrow only as far as Rifugio Ferraro - a strange first-day plan, with let than 5k, this is not even a day hike.
Aperol Spritz outside in the setting sun, good dinner with some more alcohol, and i'm ready to retire for the night. tomorrow's a short day.
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