Start: Niel/Finish: Rifugio Alpenzu Grande, 18.4KM, +1320, -1132
Was the post about yesterday's hike too much? too revealing? too self-indulgent? too cry-baby?
Being who I am, out there on the trail, I feel like I can't pretend all is good all the time. The views are amazing, the people welcoming, I wouldn't miss this journey for the world. But it's physically challenging and mentally tough.
Today is meant to be a long one, with a mean combination of more than a 1000 meters up, 1000 meters down, and almost 20 km. I plan on cutting a few km by taking the bus when i reach the valley floor. This means I need to make it on time for the bus, since these don't come very often.
So more preassure, great.
The good night rest helped, but i'm still in a funky mood.
Leaving the village, I realise I paid no attention to the village when I arrived last night. Niel is a tiny village, and, according to my guide, a typical Walser one, the Walser being a German-speaking group that arrived in the region many centuries ago, when the mountain crossings were open. I'm on the lookout for their unique architecture : houses with wraparound balconies with stilts on the second floor. In spite of being a lover of architecture, I'm not sure I would have noticed this feature, as the village looks almost exactly the same as any other i've seen so far.
The trail takes what is by now a familiar pattern: through the forest, into meadows and up through a rocky exposed section into Col Lazouney, followed by a long descent in the reverse order, through alpine meadows back into the woods.
Yesterday's despair has been replaced by determination. Determination to make it to the bus stop on time. Yet more opportunity for calculations and re-calculations and worry.
Reaching Steina, yet another tiny cluster of buildings, I locate the bus stop - not an easy task in these places, as the bus stops are often just a discrete pole with the bus timeline plastered on it, positioned only in one side of the road.
I barely find the bus stop, and the bus arrives. I get off at Gressoney Saint Jean, the valley's main settlement, and together with me - the entire bus alights. I expected to find a sleepy little place, but it is bustling, with the tiny town centre crammed with Italians on vacation, walking around the shops, eating in the few small cafes or picnicking around the tiny lake. There is a religious service taking place just outside the church with many participants of all ages. Turns out it's August 15, the Catholic day of the Assumption of Mary, a day I've never heard of, but apparently an important day in the Catholic calendar. There are even people wearing traditional garments that are clearly of Germanic origin. I would have liked to photograph them, but I feel uncomfortable asking, disrupting their ritual.
View from the lake towards Gressoney and the Monte Rossa massif
I even have to wait for a table to become available at the cafe. One Cappochino and a very good strawberry tartlet later, I'm ready to tackle the final stage of the day. Having had the option to choose between sleeping in a hotel or in a hut, I opted for the hut. Only it's 2 hours away from town, and requires more climbing. What was I thinking?
For a moment I think of booking myself into a hotel in town. After all, I've surely walked enough today. Walking past the tourist information centre, the nice lady at the counter confirms my suspicion: the town, and the valley around it, is fully booked. No chance of finding a room, particularly not a single one.
The climb to Rifugio Alpenzu is not a hard one, but I'm exhausted by what delivered on the promise of being a challenging day. I suddenly find myself surrounded with hikers making their way down from the Rifugio back into the valley.
Two hours and 450 meters later, I make it to the hut. It's located in what seems to be an ancient village, with the hut occupying several of the buildings, with the rest appearing to be not in use (though well maintained). I imagine it was bustling a few hours ago, but now only the overnight guest are left: myself, a group of Italian men, a young man on his own, and a German couple. The German couple and I strike a conversation, and they delight and intrigue me with stories about their travels.
Rifugio Alpenzu Grande
I get a room with an en-suit bathroom by myself. Dinner even includes vegetables from their garden, a rare and refreshing change from the lack of anything fresh so far. Shower, dinner, and off to bed to dream of tomorrow.
Comentários