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South West Coast Path, Day 3
Hartland to Morwenstow, 12.8km, +627, -558 Our taxi driver arrives just as I watch the other guests devour toast, cereal and then a full...
Aug 6, 20224 min read
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South West Coast Path, Day 2
Clovelly to Hartford, 17.4km, +509, -476 Coming back up the hill, it looks so much shorter than it did last night, when we didn’t know...
Aug 4, 20224 min read
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South West Coast Path, Day 1
Westward Ho! to Clovelly, 12.8km, +541, -444 Wesward Ho! is an oddity. Starting with the name, and yes, the exclamation mark is included....
Jul 12, 20224 min read
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The Schluchtensteig, Day 6: From Todtmoos to Wehr
Today is our last day on the trail, and it's pouring. We opt to take the bus from Todtmoos's busbahnhof - the central bus station -...
Mar 18, 20222 min read
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The Schluchtensteig, Day 5: From St. Blasien to Todtmoos
We leave the bustling metropolitan that is St. Blasien and start with a climb through the forest. Soon we walk past a falling structure,...
Mar 17, 20222 min read
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The Schluchtensteig, Day 4: From Fischbach to St. Blasien
Over the hill, under some ski lifts, and down into the northern shores of Schluchsee. As we reach the lake itself, it's buzzing with...
Mar 16, 20222 min read
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The Schluchtensteig, Day 3: From Schattenmühle to Fischbach
Today takes us away from the Wutach gorge itself and into the forest. It almost feels tropical, with moss and ferns and mushrooms...
Mar 15, 20223 min read
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The Schluchtensteig, Day 2: From Blumberg to Schattenmühle
On the second day, decide to cut the trail a bit by taking the bus from Blumberg as far as it goes along the route. As we board the bus,...
Mar 14, 20222 min read
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The Schluchtensteig, Day 1: From Stühlingen to Blumberg
What comes to mind when you hear the words "Black Forest"? For me, it's a cake I don't like, and a popular 80's destination for Israeli...
Mar 13, 20224 min read
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Hiking the Schluchtensteig: Intro Guide
The Schluchtensteig is a 120km, 6-days trail in the south of the Black Forest in the German state of Baden-Württemberg. Schluchten means...
Mar 12, 20225 min read
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Winter in Yizrael Valley
There is a certain kind of magic that happens in Israel when winter comes. The green is suddenly so green, so lush. If you come from...
Feb 6, 20222 min read
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A day on the Via Francigena or, On the kindness of strangers
I was planning on sticking around Torino for a few days before starting the AV, but the itch was too much to ignore. Torino, with its...
Jan 6, 20224 min read
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Aosta Alta Via, Post Trail Jitters
I’ve learned this from an American couple I meet two years ago on the TMB. I first noticed the woman, white haired, walking in measured...
Nov 3, 20214 min read
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Aosta Alta Via: Facts, figures and things I wished I knew
There's plenty of Alta Via in Italy, the name simply being "high trail". The Aosta valley, at the top northwest corner of Italy, has two...
Nov 2, 20218 min read
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Aosta Alta Via, Day 26: Last day
Start: Pontboset/Finish: Bard, 6.2km, +173, -587 As I wake up early, I know today's the last day. I can't believe I'm saying goodbye to...
Nov 1, 20213 min read
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Aosta Alta Via, Day 25: Down the Champorcher gorge
Start: Rifugio Dondena/Finish: Pontboset, 15.7km, +36, -1439 The last days on the trail should take me first into the small village of...
Oct 31, 20215 min read
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Aosta Alta Via, Day 24: The unassuming beauty of Fall
Start: Cogne/Finish: Rifugio Dondena, 21.8km, +1308, -649 I was counting on sleeping at Rifugio Sogno di Berdzè (who's name I don't know...
Oct 25, 20214 min read
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Aosta Alta Via, Day 23: The long way around
Start: Rifugio della Marmotte/Finish: Cogne, Bus: Rhemes de Notre Dam to Villenueve, Villenueve to Sarre, Sarre to Cogne I wake up...
Oct 24, 20215 min read
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Aosta Alta Via, Day 22: Marmotts all around
Start: Rifugio Chalet L'eppe/Finish: Rifugio delle Marmotte, 9.8, +913, -1140 Today takes me across the range into the next valley, and I...
Oct 23, 20215 min read
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Aosta Alta Via, Day 21: Pleasantville
Start: Planaval/Finish: Rifugio Chalet de L'epée, 15.7km, +867, -43 Planaval is yet another lovely tiny village in a lovely valley, the...
Oct 16, 20213 min read
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