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Jan 303 min read
From Munich to Venice: Everything you need to know
Der Traumpfad, or "the dream way", is the brain child of a German hiker. Not surprising, considering the physical effort required to...
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Dec 1, 20232 min read
Der Traumpfad: Day 6
Start: Geraerhütte (2324m) Finish: Hotel Weisse Lilie in Mühlbach One of the challenges of hiking in the height of the season is hut...
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Oct 15, 20234 min read
Der Traumpfad: Day 3
Start: Lizumer Hütte (2019m) Finish: Tuxer-Joch Haus (2313m) Today is a light day, in that it contains no special technical challenges....
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Aug 29, 20233 min read
Der Traumpfad: Day 2
Start: Glungezer Hütte (2610m) Finish: Lizumer Hütte (2019m) Last night, after dinner, an employee of the hut makes the rounds, asking...
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Aug 28, 20233 min read
Der Traumpfad: Day 1
Start: Hall in Tirol (570m) Finish: Glungezer Hütte (2610m) The internet lied to me. I knew that August 15th can be a challenge. But I...
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Jan 6, 20224 min read
A day on the Via Francigena or, On the kindness of strangers
I was planning on sticking around Torino for a few days before starting the AV, but the itch was too much to ignore. Torino, with its...
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Nov 3, 20214 min read
Aosta Alta Via, Post Trail Jitters
I’ve learned this from an American couple I meet two years ago on the TMB. I first noticed the woman, white haired, walking in measured...
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Nov 2, 20218 min read
Aosta Alta Via: Facts, figures and things I wished I knew
There's plenty of Alta Via in Italy, the name simply being "high trail". The Aosta valley, at the top northwest corner of Italy, has two...
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Nov 1, 20213 min read
Aosta Alta Via, Day 26: Last day
Start: Pontboset/Finish: Bard, 6.2km, +173, -587 As I wake up early, I know today's the last day. I can't believe I'm saying goodbye to...
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Oct 31, 20215 min read
Aosta Alta Via, Day 25: Down the Champorcher gorge
Start: Rifugio Dondena/Finish: Pontboset, 15.7km, +36, -1439 The last days on the trail should take me first into the small village of...
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Oct 25, 20214 min read
Aosta Alta Via, Day 24: The unassuming beauty of Fall
Start: Cogne/Finish: Rifugio Dondena, 21.8km, +1308, -649 I was counting on sleeping at Rifugio Sogno di Berdzè (who's name I don't know...
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Oct 24, 20215 min read
Aosta Alta Via, Day 23: The long way around
Start: Rifugio della Marmotte/Finish: Cogne, Bus: Rhemes de Notre Dam to Villenueve, Villenueve to Sarre, Sarre to Cogne I wake up...
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Oct 23, 20215 min read
Aosta Alta Via, Day 22: Marmotts all around
Start: Rifugio Chalet L'eppe/Finish: Rifugio delle Marmotte, 9.8, +913, -1140 Today takes me across the range into the next valley, and I...
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Oct 16, 20213 min read
Aosta Alta Via, Day 21: Pleasantville
Start: Planaval/Finish: Rifugio Chalet de L'epée, 15.7km, +867, -43 Planaval is yet another lovely tiny village in a lovely valley, the...
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Oct 12, 20215 min read
Aosta Alta Via, Day 20: The longest day, again
Start: Rifugio Deffeyes/Finish: Hotel Paramont@Planaval, 15.7km, +1207, -2135 Today is the dreaded two-days-rolled-into-one, with two...
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Oct 12, 20213 min read
Aosta Alta Via, Day 19: So much water
Start: La Thuille/Finish: Rifugio Deffayes, 9.5, +1033, -48 If yersterda'ys hike is anything to go by, today should take me 3.5 hours....
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Oct 11, 20214 min read
Aosta Alta Via, Day 18: Do I get a membership pin?
Start: Rifugio Elisabetta/Finish: Albergo Rolland, La Thuile, 16.9, +451, -1140 I've made it to the top. More accurately, I've made it to...
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Oct 8, 20214 min read
Aosta Alta Via, Day 17: On familiar grounds
Start: Rifugio Maison Vielle/Finish: Rifugio Elisabetta, 10.0, +678, -464 Today my trail overlaps with the Tour de Month Blanc again....
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Oct 7, 20212 min read
Aosta Alta Via, Day 16: Spa day
And that's a literal spa. In what is becoming a tradition, today I head out to the Pré Saint Didier thermal spa. I've done this once...
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Oct 6, 20215 min read
Aosta Alta Via, Day 15: It's so fucking beautiful here
Start: Rifugio Frassati/Finish: Courmayeur , 19.6, +679, -2006 It rained last night. Heading out of the hut, I see the young volunteers...
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