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From Munich to Venice: Everything you need to know
Der Traumpfad, or "the dream way", is the brain child of a German hiker. Not surprising, considering the physical effort required to...
Jan 30, 20243 min read
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Der Traumpfad: Day 6
Start: Geraerhütte (2324m) Finish: Hotel Weisse Lilie in Mühlbach One of the challenges of hiking in the height of the season is hut...
Dec 1, 20232 min read
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Der Traumpfad: Day 3
Start: Lizumer Hütte (2019m) Finish: Tuxer-Joch Haus (2313m) Today is a light day, in that it contains no special technical challenges....
Oct 15, 20234 min read
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Der Traumpfad: Day 2
Start: Glungezer Hütte (2610m) Finish: Lizumer Hütte (2019m) Last night, after dinner, an employee of the hut makes the rounds, asking...
Aug 29, 20233 min read
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Der Traumpfad: Day 1
Start: Hall in Tirol (570m) Finish: Glungezer Hütte (2610m) The internet lied to me. I knew that August 15th can be a challenge. But I...
Aug 28, 20233 min read
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A day on the Via Francigena or, On the kindness of strangers
I was planning on sticking around Torino for a few days before starting the AV, but the itch was too much to ignore. Torino, with its...
Jan 6, 20224 min read
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Aosta Alta Via, Post Trail Jitters
I’ve learned this from an American couple I meet two years ago on the TMB. I first noticed the woman, white haired, walking in measured...
Nov 3, 20214 min read
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Aosta Alta Via: Facts, figures and things I wished I knew
There's plenty of Alta Via in Italy, the name simply being "high trail". The Aosta valley, at the top northwest corner of Italy, has two...
Nov 2, 20218 min read
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Aosta Alta Via, Day 26: Last day
Start: Pontboset/Finish: Bard, 6.2km, +173, -587 As I wake up early, I know today's the last day. I can't believe I'm saying goodbye to...
Nov 1, 20213 min read
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Aosta Alta Via, Day 25: Down the Champorcher gorge
Start: Rifugio Dondena/Finish: Pontboset, 15.7km, +36, -1439 The last days on the trail should take me first into the small village of...
Oct 31, 20215 min read
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Aosta Alta Via, Day 24: The unassuming beauty of Fall
Start: Cogne/Finish: Rifugio Dondena, 21.8km, +1308, -649 I was counting on sleeping at Rifugio Sogno di Berdzè (who's name I don't know...
Oct 25, 20214 min read
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Aosta Alta Via, Day 23: The long way around
Start: Rifugio della Marmotte/Finish: Cogne, Bus: Rhemes de Notre Dam to Villenueve, Villenueve to Sarre, Sarre to Cogne I wake up...
Oct 24, 20215 min read
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Aosta Alta Via, Day 22: Marmotts all around
Start: Rifugio Chalet L'eppe/Finish: Rifugio delle Marmotte, 9.8, +913, -1140 Today takes me across the range into the next valley, and I...
Oct 23, 20215 min read
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Aosta Alta Via, Day 21: Pleasantville
Start: Planaval/Finish: Rifugio Chalet de L'epée, 15.7km, +867, -43 Planaval is yet another lovely tiny village in a lovely valley, the...
Oct 16, 20213 min read
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Aosta Alta Via, Day 20: The longest day, again
Start: Rifugio Deffeyes/Finish: Hotel Paramont@Planaval, 15.7km, +1207, -2135 Today is the dreaded two-days-rolled-into-one, with two...
Oct 12, 20215 min read
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Aosta Alta Via, Day 19: So much water
Start: La Thuille/Finish: Rifugio Deffayes, 9.5, +1033, -48 If yersterda'ys hike is anything to go by, today should take me 3.5 hours....
Oct 12, 20213 min read
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Aosta Alta Via, Day 18: Do I get a membership pin?
Start: Rifugio Elisabetta/Finish: Albergo Rolland, La Thuile, 16.9, +451, -1140 I've made it to the top. More accurately, I've made it to...
Oct 11, 20214 min read
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Aosta Alta Via, Day 17: On familiar grounds
Start: Rifugio Maison Vielle/Finish: Rifugio Elisabetta, 10.0, +678, -464 Today my trail overlaps with the Tour de Month Blanc again....
Oct 8, 20214 min read
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Aosta Alta Via, Day 16: Spa day
And that's a literal spa. In what is becoming a tradition, today I head out to the Pré Saint Didier thermal spa. I've done this once...
Oct 7, 20212 min read
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Aosta Alta Via, Day 15: It's so fucking beautiful here
Start: Rifugio Frassati/Finish: Courmayeur , 19.6, +679, -2006 It rained last night. Heading out of the hut, I see the young volunteers...
Oct 6, 20215 min read
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